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York Jong

PHOTORESISTOR ALGORITHMS - 0 views

www.societyofrobots.com/rogramming_photoresistor.shtml

algorithm photoresistor photovore robot sensor

shared by York Jong on 14 Jun 07 - Cached
  • pseudocode: read left_photoresistor read right_photoresistor if left_photoresistor detects more light than right_photoresistor then turn robot left if right_photoresistor detects more light than left_photoresistor then turn robot right if right_photoresistor detects about the same as left_photoresistor then robot goes straight loop
  • Photovore Algorithm, Improved This algorithm does the same as the original, but instead of case-based it works under a more advanced Fuzzy Logic control algorithm. Your robot will no longer just have the three modes of turn left, turn right, and go forward. Instead will have commands like 'turn left by 10 degrees' or 'turn right really fast', and with no additional lines of code! pseudocode: read left_photoresistor read right_photoresistor left_motor = (left_photoresistor - right_photoresistor) * arbitrary_constant right_motor = (right_photoresistor - left_photoresistor) * arbitrary_constant loop
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  • Photovore, Split Brain Approach This algorithm works without comparison of photoresistor values. Instead, just command the right motor based on light from the right sensor, and the left motor with only data from the left sensor. You can also get interesting variations by reversing the sensors for a cross-brain algorithm. pseudocode: read left_photoresistor read right_photoresistor move left_wheel_speed = left_photoresistor * arbitrary_constant move right_wheel_speed = right_photoresistor * arbitrary_constant loop
  • York Jong on 14 Jun 07
     
    The photovore is a robot that chases light, and is perhaps the simplest of all sensor algorithms. If you are a beginner, this should be your first algorithm.
York Jong

Ray's Solder-less Motor Mount Tutorial - 0 views

raysbeambots.solarbotics.net/MotorMount.htm

5star beam diy motor nonsolder photopopper phototrope photovore robot toturial trick

shared by York Jong on 28 May 07 - Cached
  • attach your Pager Motors to your Popper using two Fuse Clips, two Small Paper Clips, and no solder
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  • Set one straightened paper clip aside, you will use it at the end. Bend the two tips of one of the two paper clips as shown.
  • Put it in through the fuse clip like this, but make sure the notch in the fuse clip is facing out. (The clip has one edge bent inwards. This is the part that has to face outwards). Study this next picture closely.
  • From the position above, bend the paper clip up and then around the lead of the fuse clip as in the next picture.
  • Bend the paper clip under the fuse clip...
  • then up and over the fuse clip:
  • then around its other lead and you're almost done with the first fuse clip.
  • First clip -- wire is on the RIGHT side of the fuse clip leads... Second Clip -- wire is on the LEFT side of the fuse clip leads... But remember to make sure the notch in the fuse clip is facing out. (The clip has one edge bent inwards. This is the part that has to face outwards).  Follow all the steps above with the second clip and you get this:
  • York Jong on 28 May 07
     
    I'll show you how to attach your Pager Motors to your Popper using two Fuse Clips, two Small Paper Clips, and no solder.
York Jong

Ray's Fred FLED Photopopper Tutorial - 0 views

raysbeambots.solarbotics.net/FLEDtutorial.htm

beam diy photopopper phototrope photovore robot toturial trick

shared by York Jong on 28 May 07 - Cached
  • It's practically impossible to solder the FLEDs straight using only your hands
  • This part is rather tricky because there's so little space between the Solar Engine and the 3300uF Cap. -- You can leave more space here if you like, but it just looks better if you keep it all nice and tight
  • Find two FLEDs with the same (or very similar) resistance
York Jong

Maxibug, Minibug, Microbug - 0 views

home.wanadoo.nl/...maxibug.htm

5star 74x14 beam circuit diy electronics maxibug photopopper phototrope photovore robot tutorial

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • It is powered with two 3.3F Goldcaps. They can be charged in a few seconds. When they are charged, MAXIBUg gets "afraid" of light, and wanders of to go to play "in the dark". After a while, about 20 seconds (depending on the current used by the two motors ), the power has dropped, and it wants to "eat". It gets light attracted, and will turn and go to the light. When it gets there, it will recharge and still will be atrackted to the light until it reaches a trigger voltage , at which it gets "afraid"of the light again. This will go on all day until someone turns off the lightsource. While doing all this it also will backup when bumping into something.
  • Because of the "on-off" output of the first schmitt trigger, the inputs for the LDRs will switch. That's why it gets light atracted -light afraid. This also means that you cannot use IR diodes (like SHF205). You have to use LDRs !
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  • The change in output is visualised with two red LEDs. When the LEDs are burning, the bot is "afraid" of light. They are mounted as eyes off the bot, that's why I used two off them. One LED will do also, but doesn't look nice !
York Jong

Short Period Astetics Intelligence - 0 views

home.wanadoo.nl/...others.htm

5star beam circuit diy electronics phototrope photovore robot tutorial

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • These bots are powered by a Gold Cap and for a period of about one minute they move, always looking for the brightest lightspot, so in fact they will even follow a lightsource.
  • All these bots are powered by a 3,3F Gold Cap ( F= farad). You can charge them with a regulated power supply
  • the two 5 mm red LED's it is capable of following a light source.
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  • When ALI bumps into something it will go backward for a short time and then go forward in another direction, so they will find their way all alone.
  • The first one is a light seeker and the second one is a line follower. This version I like very much.
  • When you are making the line follower you need to place the small light bulb. The light seeker doesn't need it.
  • When bumbing into something it can also reverse for several seconds. The time of going reverse can be changed. I've used 2M2 and 3,3 uF, this will give a reverse time of about 5 seconds
  • For the LED’s you can almost use any type or color, I used red ones 5 mm.
  • When you "power on" Bully it will first go backwards for some time. After a few seconds it seems that it doesn’t know what to do, it looks like it’s shivering. Then it starts of going to the brightest lightspot it can see, first slowly and then like "in a hurry". When it reaches the lightspot it makes turns which make it look like it’s happy! In the time doing all this stuff, each bump into a obstacle makes it move backwards for a few seconds. The time doing this can be changed with the 10 uF elco. Smaller means less seconds and bigger means reversing for more seconds.
York Jong

How to freeform the H-bridge - by Brian Hendrickson - 0 views

www.beam-online.com/...hbridge.html

beam driver electronics h-bridge motor

shared by York Jong on 26 May 07 - Cached
  • York Jong on 26 May 07
     
    Most of us are familiar with Beckingham's photovore block (also known as Chiu's). The following is a similar format used for freeforming a simple H-bridge motor driver that can be used for walkers, heads, and any other project that uses motors that requir
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