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York Jong

Ray's BEAM Bots -- BatteryVore - 0 views

raysbeambots.solarbotics.net/ivore.htm

battery batteryvore beam diy phototrope robot

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • It's simply a Phototropic BiCore driving two small motors
  • I had to add resistors across the motor leads to slow them down! I got this idea from Ben Hitchcock's Fred Troubleshooting Page -- "D) If the motor fires strongly once..."
  • York Jong on 27 May 07
     
    It's simply a Phototropic BiCore driving two small motors. -- a 74HCT240 chip with no motor driver. See the Schematic below.
York Jong

Ray's Solder-less Motor Mount Tutorial - 0 views

raysbeambots.solarbotics.net/MotorMount.htm

5star beam diy motor nonsolder photopopper phototrope photovore robot toturial trick

shared by York Jong on 28 May 07 - Cached
  • attach your Pager Motors to your Popper using two Fuse Clips, two Small Paper Clips, and no solder
  • ...7 more annotations...
  • Set one straightened paper clip aside, you will use it at the end. Bend the two tips of one of the two paper clips as shown.
  • Put it in through the fuse clip like this, but make sure the notch in the fuse clip is facing out. (The clip has one edge bent inwards. This is the part that has to face outwards). Study this next picture closely.
  • From the position above, bend the paper clip up and then around the lead of the fuse clip as in the next picture.
  • Bend the paper clip under the fuse clip...
  • then up and over the fuse clip:
  • then around its other lead and you're almost done with the first fuse clip.
  • First clip -- wire is on the RIGHT side of the fuse clip leads... Second Clip -- wire is on the LEFT side of the fuse clip leads... But remember to make sure the notch in the fuse clip is facing out. (The clip has one edge bent inwards. This is the part that has to face outwards).  Follow all the steps above with the second clip and you get this:
  • York Jong on 28 May 07
     
    I'll show you how to attach your Pager Motors to your Popper using two Fuse Clips, two Small Paper Clips, and no solder.
York Jong

Ray's Fred FLED Photopopper Tutorial - 0 views

raysbeambots.solarbotics.net/FLEDtutorial.htm

beam diy photopopper phototrope photovore robot toturial trick

shared by York Jong on 28 May 07 - Cached
  • It's practically impossible to solder the FLEDs straight using only your hands
  • This part is rather tricky because there's so little space between the Solar Engine and the 3300uF Cap. -- You can leave more space here if you like, but it just looks better if you keep it all nice and tight
  • Find two FLEDs with the same (or very similar) resistance
York Jong

Maxibug, Minibug, Microbug - 0 views

home.wanadoo.nl/...maxibug.htm

5star 74x14 beam circuit diy electronics maxibug photopopper phototrope photovore robot tutorial

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • It is powered with two 3.3F Goldcaps. They can be charged in a few seconds. When they are charged, MAXIBUg gets "afraid" of light, and wanders of to go to play "in the dark". After a while, about 20 seconds (depending on the current used by the two motors ), the power has dropped, and it wants to "eat". It gets light attracted, and will turn and go to the light. When it gets there, it will recharge and still will be atrackted to the light until it reaches a trigger voltage , at which it gets "afraid"of the light again. This will go on all day until someone turns off the lightsource. While doing all this it also will backup when bumping into something.
  • Because of the "on-off" output of the first schmitt trigger, the inputs for the LDRs will switch. That's why it gets light atracted -light afraid. This also means that you cannot use IR diodes (like SHF205). You have to use LDRs !
  • ...2 more annotations...
  • The change in output is visualised with two red LEDs. When the LEDs are burning, the bot is "afraid" of light. They are mounted as eyes off the bot, that's why I used two off them. One LED will do also, but doesn't look nice !
York Jong

Short Period Astetics Intelligence - 0 views

home.wanadoo.nl/...others.htm

5star beam circuit diy electronics phototrope photovore robot tutorial

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • These bots are powered by a Gold Cap and for a period of about one minute they move, always looking for the brightest lightspot, so in fact they will even follow a lightsource.
  • All these bots are powered by a 3,3F Gold Cap ( F= farad). You can charge them with a regulated power supply
  • the two 5 mm red LED's it is capable of following a light source.
  • ...8 more annotations...
  • When ALI bumps into something it will go backward for a short time and then go forward in another direction, so they will find their way all alone.
  • The first one is a light seeker and the second one is a line follower. This version I like very much.
  • When you are making the line follower you need to place the small light bulb. The light seeker doesn't need it.
  • When bumbing into something it can also reverse for several seconds. The time of going reverse can be changed. I've used 2M2 and 3,3 uF, this will give a reverse time of about 5 seconds
  • For the LED’s you can almost use any type or color, I used red ones 5 mm.
  • When you "power on" Bully it will first go backwards for some time. After a few seconds it seems that it doesn’t know what to do, it looks like it’s shivering. Then it starts of going to the brightest lightspot it can see, first slowly and then like "in a hurry". When it reaches the lightspot it makes turns which make it look like it’s happy! In the time doing all this stuff, each bump into a obstacle makes it move backwards for a few seconds. The time doing this can be changed with the 10 uF elco. Smaller means less seconds and bigger means reversing for more seconds.
York Jong

A Bot With Peripheral Vision - 0 views

www.geocities.com/...PVRoller.html

5star beam behavior-based circuit electronics photopopper phototrope robot

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • I wanted to share an adaptation of the Schead v4, that I have been experimenting with. It is (for lack of a better term) a Master/Slave Schmitt Comparitor Head (M/S SC-H). With the addition of a 74 AC 240 or two (as motor drivers) and a pair of motors, you can put together an interesting little light seeking, wheeled robot with peripheral vision.
  • As long as the light reaching the photo-bridge of the Master SC-H is balanced, then the Slave SC-H acts as a regular, lone SC-H would. So, if one of the slave photo-diodes detects more light then the other, the inverter that controls the motor on that side changes states and is now the same as the inverter of the Master SC-H tied to the same motor. This turns that motor off and the robot will pivot around the stopped wheel toward the greater light source until the light on each sensors is balanced and the motor again begins to turn.
  • I am also using SCar to continue experimenting with Stacking separate Sensor/Behavior circuits onto a robot. I will post more as progress is made.
  • ...9 more annotations...
  • The diodes between the  photo-diodes create a constant voltage drop between the inputs of the inverters. They cause  a dead band to exist between the thresholds of the two inverters. In a way they cause the circuit to act like a kind of window  comparator. Without these diodes both inverters would always be in the same state. With them, there is a small range where their outputs are in opposite states.
  • The Slave section has only two diodes (or one LED) between the photo-diodes. This makes it respond to smaller differences in light levels than does the Master part of the circuit
  • Basically, what I did was to stack one SC-H on top of another
  • I?m using a 74 HC 139 to direct the outputs of the M/S SC-H circuit to the appropriate motor(s)
  • Cheesy works very well. I?ve had fun making him chase a spot of light from a flashlight around on the floor. He has even been able to detect and react to the flashlight spot on the floor of the brightly lighted lab where I work.
    • York Jong
      York Jong on 03 Jun 07
       
      Stacking separate Sensor/Behavior
York Jong

74*14-based photopopper circuits - 0 views

library.solarbotics.net/...bot_popper_14.html

5star 74x14 beam circuit electronics maxibug photopopper phototrope robot

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • Droidmakr (Cliff Boerema) came up with an interesting idea for a light-tracking head with a form of peripheral vision. As often happens, the circuit turned into something different -- a photopopper:
  • All done with a single 74HC14 (the '240 being a motor driver).
  • I tried the same setup with the 74*240 (with an extra inverter per motor) and 7404, but the 74HC14 seems to work best.
  • ...6 more annotations...
  • John-Isaac Mumford started off by simplifying the Maxibug design, and wound up with an entirely new circuit -- Mazibug
  • The tactiles switches behave even more strongly: if a switch is closed then the bot turns away unconditionally. If both switches are closed the robots reverse straight back regardless of light level.
  • When the robot bumps into something on one side, it over-rides all the photodiode circuits and reverses the motor on the OPPOSITE side
  • From the title it would appear that all 4 photodiodes face forward but the 2 inner PDs face directly forward and the outer 2 are angled to the left and right
    • York Jong
      York Jong on 03 Jun 07
       
      behavior-based control that all done with a sigle 74HC14
York Jong

74*240-based photopopper circuits - 0 views

library.solarbotics.net/...bot_popper_240.html

5star 74x240 beam circuit electronics maxibug photopopper phototrope robot

shared by York Jong on 27 May 07 - Cached
  • This adapted photodiode is not as sensitive as large area types so C2 may need to be reduced to 0.01uF while the value of R2 and R3 can be increased by a factor of 10.
  • Two leaded phototransistors can also be used but may require extra shielding to reduce light current in the bridge to acceptable levels
  • basic photopopper functions plus reverse -- all on a single chip
  • ...8 more annotations...
  • The monocore capacitor is for positive feedback for fast switching between the two motors and to slow down and avoid high frequency oscillations.
  • R2 together with C2 limits the maximum frequency of the monocore and motor drivers when the light is bright and the sensors are equally lit
  • R3 together with C2 sets the minimum frequency of the waggle even in the complete dark which is more interesting than twirling endlessly in a circle.
  • Having said that, maxibug is not perfect: it churns its wheels while feeding and does not back out of the feeding station when full. CD MaxiBug v5 uses just a few more parts but has powerful and efficient motor drivers, its motors are off while feeding, and it backs up when full.
  • The CD Maxibug v5 uses just one 74AC240 chip
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