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my hunch is that users don't actually want to be as literally in "control" as designers. We just want stuff to work.

good Web design often has more in common with the invisible soft-science of industrial design than the in-your-face, "art directed" aestheticism that many of us associate it with.

The devices seem to be spurring deeper interest in wine and empowering bolder, more confident selections, they say, potentially revolutionizing the psychology of dining’s most intimidating passage.

Interactive wine lists began appearing at a smattering of restaurants as early as 2001, and leading wine analysts have for several years offered recommendations via smartphone applications. But Apple’s introduction in April of the iPad, which approximates a conventional wine list in size, shape and weight, has substantially accelerated the trend.

“It stuns me, but they seem to trust the device more than they trust me, and these are people I’ve waited on for 10 years.”