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Melissa Clark's favorite part of the chicken is the drumstick, because it's juicy and easy to brown. She likes using only drumsticks in this mustardy stew -thickened with tangy crème fraîche-so that all the meat cooks at the same rate.

Laab salads are a regular ingredient in many Thai diets, particularly as most Thai meals are made up of a mixture of dishes including a soup, a salad, a meat dish and a vegetable dish. Laabs fall into the "sep" category of Thai food which are characterised by sour and spicy flavours.