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Moules au champagne et au safran (ou pas) - one pinch saffron threads (optional) - 1.8 kilograms (4 pounds) fresh, live mussels, about 2.5 liters (see note) - 15 grams (1 tablespoon) butter - 4 small yellow onions, about 250 grams (9 ounces), finely minced - 1 clove garlic, finely chopped - 240 ml (1 cup) dry champagne, or other dry white wine, sparkling or not - freshly ground black pepper - 2 handfuls flat-leaf parsley, snipped - 2 to 4 rounded teaspoons crème fraîche, or sour cream

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion, chopped Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large orange 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed 1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes 5 large tomatoes or 15 plum tomatoes, skinned and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 2 pounds sea scallops, trimmed and washed 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1/3 cup heavy cream

1. In a large, deep, heavy skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 1 minute. 2. Add the orange zest, fennel seed, crushed red pepper and cook another 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add the tomatoes and cook until sauce simmers. Add the tomato paste, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, basil and garlic and simmer another 2 minutes. 3. While the sauce is simmering, cut the scallops in half or quarters, depending on the size of the scallops. Add the scallops to the simmering sauce and cook until the scallops are barely firm, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the cooked scallops with a slotted spoon to a serving bowl. 4. Bring the sauce in the pan to a boil and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, whisk the starch with the cream until smooth. Whisk into the boiling sauce and return to a simmer. Pour this sauce over the scallops.

Gratin Dauphinois - 1 kg (2.2 pounds) potatoes, a mix of waxy and baking potatoes (if you prefer to use only one type, pick waxy potatoes, not too firm) - 500 ml (2 cups) milk (whole or part-skim, not skim) - 1 1/2 teaspoons salt - freshly grated nutmeg - 1 clove garlic, sliced lengthwise - 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives (optional) - 60 ml (1/4 cup) heavy cream (marketed as double cream in the UK and crème fraîche liquide in France) Serves 6 as a side dish. Peel the potatoes, rinse them briefly, and slice them thinly (about 3mm or 1/10th of an inch) and evenly. (A food processor or a mandoline come in handy at this point.) Do not rinse after slicing, or you will lose all that precious starch. Combine the sliced potatoes, milk, salt and a good grating of nutmeg in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, and keep simmering for 8 minutes, stirring the potatoes and scraping the bottom of the pan regularly to prevent sticking/scorching. The milk will gradually thicken to a creamy consistency. While the potatoes are simmering, preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F) and rub the bottom and sides of a medium earthenware or glass baking dish (I use an oval dish that's 26 cm/10 inches at its widest, and 2 liters/2 quarts in capacity) with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Transfer half of the potatoes into the baking dish, sprinkle with the chives if using, and drizzle with half of the cream. Add the rest of the potatoes, pour the cooking milk over them, and drizzle with the remaining cream. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until bubbly on the edges and nicely browned at the top. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. You can also bake the gratin a few hours ahead, let cool, and reheat for 15 minutes in a 220°C (430°F) oven before serving