Moules au champagne et au safran (ou pas) - one pinch saffron threads (optional) - 1.8 kilograms (4 pounds) fresh, live mussels, about 2.5 liters (see note) - 15 grams (1 tablespoon) butter - 4 small yellow onions, about 250 grams (9 ounces), finely minced - 1 clove garlic, finely chopped - 240 ml (1 cup) dry champagne, or other dry white wine, sparkling or not - freshly ground black pepper - 2 handfuls flat-leaf parsley, snipped - 2 to 4 rounded teaspoons crème fraîche, or sour cream

Tuscan Tomato, Cucumber & Bread Salad

“Panzanella, little swamp, is another tomato favorite, a salad of oil, vinegar, tomatoes, basil, cucumber, minced onion, and stale bread soaked in water and squeezed dry - a true invention from necessity. Since bread must be bought every day, Tuscan cooking makes good use of leftovers.” Nothing could be easier. I used 3 small tomatoes cut up in small bites, half a cucumber also cut up into small bites, minced onion, fresh local basil, 8 slices of leftover hard baguette seasoned with salt and pepper. Like many Tuscan cooks, I added the olive oil and vinegar by eye but you should know the typical ratio is 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar. The bread was soaked in water and squeezed as dry as possible. At first I didn’t think it would taste very good but after dressing the salad and letting it sit for a while, the bread gave the salad a wonderful texture and absorbed some of the seasoning with the juices from the vegetables. It was amazing.  And it went great with a chilled bottle of Prosecco!

For the spareribs750g/1½lb pork spareribs600ml/1 pint groundnut (peanut) oil For the marinade1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry1 tbsp light soy sauce1 tbsp Chinese black rice vinegar or cider vinegar2 tsp sesame oil1 tbsp corn flourFor the sauce2 tbsp finely chopped garlic2 tsp five-spice powder3 tbsp finely chopped spring onions3 tbsp Chinese rock sugar or granulated sugar3 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry150ml/5 fl oz chicken stock1½ tbsp light soy sauce2 tbsp dried grated orange peel85ml/3fl oz Chinese black rice vinegar or cider vinegar

Gratin Dauphinois - 1 kg (2.2 pounds) potatoes, a mix of waxy and baking potatoes (if you prefer to use only one type, pick waxy potatoes, not too firm) - 500 ml (2 cups) milk (whole or part-skim, not skim) - 1 1/2 teaspoons salt - freshly grated nutmeg - 1 clove garlic, sliced lengthwise - 3 tablespoons finely chopped chives (optional) - 60 ml (1/4 cup) heavy cream (marketed as double cream in the UK and crème fraîche liquide in France) Serves 6 as a side dish. Peel the potatoes, rinse them briefly, and slice them thinly (about 3mm or 1/10th of an inch) and evenly. (A food processor or a mandoline come in handy at this point.) Do not rinse after slicing, or you will lose all that precious starch. Combine the sliced potatoes, milk, salt and a good grating of nutmeg in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, and keep simmering for 8 minutes, stirring the potatoes and scraping the bottom of the pan regularly to prevent sticking/scorching. The milk will gradually thicken to a creamy consistency. While the potatoes are simmering, preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F) and rub the bottom and sides of a medium earthenware or glass baking dish (I use an oval dish that's 26 cm/10 inches at its widest, and 2 liters/2 quarts in capacity) with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Transfer half of the potatoes into the baking dish, sprinkle with the chives if using, and drizzle with half of the cream. Add the rest of the potatoes, pour the cooking milk over them, and drizzle with the remaining cream. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until bubbly on the edges and nicely browned at the top. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. You can also bake the gratin a few hours ahead, let cool, and reheat for 15 minutes in a 220°C (430°F) oven before serving

6 large prawns, butterflied, shells on, but heads removedpinch sea salt drizzle vegetable oillarge handful fresh coriander1 lime, juice onlyFor the sweet and sour sauce4-5 tbsp white wine vinegar3-4 tbsp caster sugar4cm/1in piece fresh ginger, unpeeled1 mild red chilli, finely choppedMethod1. To butterfly the prawns, first remove the head by twisting it off, then discard. Don't remove the shell. Place the prawn on its back on a cutting board. Using a small, sharp knife, cut through the centre of the body from below the head down to the tail. Don't cut all the way through the flesh. Repeat with the remaining prawns.2. For the sweet and sour sauce, pour the vinegar into a small pan (not aluminium) over a medium heat. Add the sugar and heat through.3. Slice the ginger into thick slices and add to the sauce in the pan.4. Slice the chilli and add to the pan. Simmer the sauce until the sugar is dissolved and the sauce is reduced and sticky - about five minutes. Taste and adjust flavour as needed by adding a touch more sugar or vinegar, as necessary.5. Meanwhile, heat a ridged grill pan until hot. Sprinkle the sea salt over the prepared prawns. Pour over the oil, then rub it into the prawns.6. Place the prawns on the hot grill pan and grill until cooked through and slightly charred (this will take about 2-3 minutes). Press down lightly with tongs to ensure even cooking. Turn the prawns over and cook for another 2-3 minutes on the other side.7. Chop the fresh coriander. When the prawns are cooked, transfer them into the pan with the reduced sauce.8. Add the coriander and a squeeze of fresh lime juice to the pan.9. Stir together until the prawns are coated in the sauce. Serve straightaway.