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After the earthquake demolished their houses, most of them were able to drag some of their rice, oil, or crackers out of the rubble. They all take a certain pride in the fact that they are now sharing what they have equally among themselves. "We are living communally," says Shelove Lindor, a thoughtful man in glasses. "We are helping one another."

In the rough, hilly neighborhood of Delmas, women sell carrots and okra brought in from the nearby countryside.

Residents have piled up their garbage in a ravine and are burning it because, one woman explains to me, "it could be bad for the health" to have so much garbage on the street