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mnollen20

Composting: a guide to making compost at home, using compost tumblers, bins & other com... - 4 views

eartheasy.com/grow_compost.html

composting garden

shared by mnollen20 on 18 Sep 13 - Cached
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  • Do not compost meat, bones or fish scraps
  • (they will attract pests), perennial weeds (they can be spread with the compost) or diseased plants. Do not not include pet manures in compost that will be used on food crops
  • Banana peels, peach peels and orange rinds may contain pesticide residue, and should be kept out of the compost. Black walnut leaves should not be composted. Sawdust may be added to the compost, but should be mixed or scattered thinly to avoid clumping. Be sure sawdust is clean, with no machine oil or chain oil residues from cutting equipment.
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  • How to Compost
  • Tips for successful composting
  • chicken manure
  • table scraps
  •  fruit & vegetable scraps
  • eggshells
  • leaves
  • Leaf-mould tea You can also use leaves to make a nutrituous "tea" for your plants. Simply wrap a small pile of leaves in burlap and immerse in a garbage can or large bucket of water. Leave for three days, then remove the "tea bag" and dump contents into the compost. Scoop out the enriched water with a smaller bucket and use to water your plants and shrubs.
  • For small-scale outdoor composting, enclosed bins are the most practical. The least expensive method is to build one yourself from a heavy-duty garbage can. Simply drill 1.5-cm aeration holes in rows at roughly 15-cm intervals around the can. Fill the can with a mixture of high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials. Stir the contents occasionally to avoid anaerobic pockets and to speed up the composting process. If the lid is secure, the bin can be laid on its side and rolled; a length of 2" cedar ( use a 2x2 or a 2x4) can be bolted to the inside, running top to bottom, to help flip the material. Without this, the contents tend to stay in place while the bin is rolled.
  • Another option is a compost bin, sometimes called a 'compost digester'. Compost bins are enclosed on the sides and top, and open on the bottom so they sit directly on the ground. These are common composting units for homes in residential areas where bins tend to be smaller, yet enclosed enough to discourage pests. These bins are inexpensive, but it is difficult to turn the compost, so it can take several months to produce compost. These bins are thin-walled plastic, and may chip along the edges, especially during a freeze. The most efficient enclosed bin method is the compost tumbler. It's possible to maintain relatively high temperatures in drum/tumbler systems, both because the container acts as insulation and because the turning keeps the microbes aerated and active. An interior "paddle" aids aeration and prevents clumping of the composting materials. This greatly speeds up the composting proces
  • Activators' can be added to your compost to help kick-start the process and speed up composting. Common compost activator materials are: comfrey leaves, grass clippings, young weeds, well-rotted chicken manure. ~ Flying insects attracted to your compost?
  • Small fruit flies, especially, are naturally attracted to the compost pile. They can be discouraged by simply cove
  • ing any exposed fruit or vegetable matter. Keep a small pile of grass clippings next to your compost bin, and when you add new kitchen waste to the pile, cover it with one or two inches of clippings. Adding lime or calcium will also discourage flies.
parkgra20

Compost - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - 0 views

en.wikipedia.org/Compost

compost

shared by parkgra20 on 18 Sep 13 - Cached
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  • At the simplest level, the process of composting simply requires making a heap of wetted organic matter (leaves, "green" food waste) and waiting for the materials to break down into humus after a period of weeks or months. Modern, methodical composting is a multi-step, closely monitored process with measured inputs of water, air, and carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials.
  • Compost can be rich in nutrients. It is used in gardens, landscaping, horticulture, and agriculture. The compost itself is beneficial for the land in many ways, including as a soil conditioner, a fertilizer, addition of vital humus or humic acids, and as a natural pesticide for soil.
  • Certain ratios of these materials will provide beneficial bacteria with the nutrients to work at a rate that will heat up the pile. In that process much water will be released as vapor ("steam"), and the oxygen will be quickly depleted, explaining the need to actively manage the pile. The hotter the pile gets, the more often added air and water is necessary; the air/water balance is critical to maintaining high temperatures (135°-160° Fahrenheit / 50° - 70° Celsius) until the materials are broken down. At the same time, too much air or water also slows the process, as does too much carbon (or too little nitrogen).
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  • Compost is generally recommended as an additive to soil, or other matrices such as coir and peat, as a tilth improver, supplying humus and nutrients. It provides a rich growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which plants can flourish, although it is rarely used alone, being primarily mixed with soil, sand, grit, bark chips, vermiculite, perlite, or clay granules to produce loam. Compost can be tilled directly into the soil or growing medium to boost the level of organic matter and the overall fertility of the soil. Compost that is ready to be used as an additive is dark brown or even black with an earthy smell
  • Generally, direct seeding into a compost is not recommended due to the speed with which it may dry and the possible presence of phytotoxins that may inhibit germination,[11][12][13] and the possible tie up of nitrogen by incompletely decomposed lignin.[4] It is very common to see blends of 20–30% compost used for transplanting seedlings at cotyledon stage or later. Composting can destroy pathogens or unwanted seeds. Unwanted living plants (or weeds) can be discouraged by covering with mulch/compost.
  • The "microbial pesticides" in compost may include thermophiles and mesophiles, however certain composting detritivores such as black soldier fly larvae and redworms, also reduce many pathogens. Thermophilic (high-temperature) composting is well known to destroy many seeds and nearly all types of pathogens (exceptions may include prions). The sanitizing qualities of (thermophilic) composting are desirable where there is a high
  • ikelihood of pathogens, such as with manure. Applications include humanure composting or the deep litter technique
  • Composting as a recognized practice dates to at least the early Roman Empire since Pliny the Elder (AD 23-79). Traditionally, composting involved piling organic materials until the next planting season, at which time the materials would have decayed enough to be ready for use in the soil. The advantage of this method is that little working time or effort is required from the composter and it fits in naturally with agricultural practices in temperate climates. Disadvantages (from the modern perspective) are that space is used for a whole year, some nutrients might be leached due to exposure to rainfall, and disease-producing organisms and insects may not be adequately controlled.
  • Composting was somewhat modernized beginning in the 1920s in Europe as a tool for organic farming.[32] The first industrial station for the transformation of urban organic materials into compost was set up in Wels/Austria in the year 1921.[33] Early frequent citations for propounding composting within farming are for the German-speaking world Rudolf Steiner, founder of a farming method called biodynamics, and Annie Francé-Harrar, who was appointed on behalf of the government in Mexico and supported the country 1950–1958 to set up a large humus organization in the fight against erosion and soil degradation. In the English-speaking world it was Sir Albert Howard who worked extensively in India on sustainable practices and Lady Eve Balfour who was a huge proponent of composting. Composting was imported to America by various followers of these early Europea
  • movements by the likes of J.I. Rodale (founder of Rodale Organic Gardening), E.E. Pfeiffer (who developed scientific practices in biodynamic farming), Paul Keene (founder of Walnut Acres in Pennsylvania), and Scott and Helen Nearing (who inspired the back-to-the-land movement of the 1960s). Coincidentally, some of the above met briefly in India - all were quite influential in the U.S. from the 1960s into the 1980s.
  • On many farms, the basic composting ingredients are manure generated on the farm and bedding. Straw and sawdust are common bedding materials. Non-traditional bedding materials are also used, including newspaper and chopped cardboard. The amount of manure composted on a livestock farm is often determined by cleaning schedules, land availability, and weather condi
  • tions. E
  • ach type of manure has its own physical, chemical, and biological characteristics. Cattle and horse manures, when mixed with bedding, possess good qualities for composting. Swine manure, which is very wet and usually not mixed with bedding material, must be mixed with straw or similar raw materials. Poultry manure also must be blended with carbonaceous materials - those low in nitrogen preferred, such as sawdust or straw
  • Grub composting uses the black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) to quickly convert manure or kitchen waste into an animal feed for poultry, fish, pigs, lizards, turtles, and possibly dogs. In a grub bin, BSFL self-harvest when mature by crawling into a separate collection container. The harvested grubs are exceptionally nutritious and medicinal for poultry. This is probably the fastest composting technique. The composted residue can be used as a soil amendment or as food for worms (redworms). BSFL often appear naturally in worm bins, composting toilets, or compost bins. Without much added cost, these devices could be designed to also harvest BSFL.
  • Bokashi is a method that uses a mix of microorganisms to cover food waste to decrease smell. It derives from the practice of Japanese farmers centuries ago of covering food waste with rich, local soil that contained the microorganisms that would ferment the waste. After a few weeks, they would bury the waste that weeks later, would become soil.[14]
  • Most practitioners obtain the microorganisms from the product Effective Microorganisms (EM1),[14] first sold in the 1980s. EM1 is mixed with a carbon base (e.g. sawdust or bran) that it sticks to and a sugar for food (e.g. molasses). The mixture is layered with waste in a sealed container and after a few weeks, removed and buried.[14] EM primarily composted of lactica acid bacteria, yeast and phototrophic (PNSB) bacteria. Newspaper fermented in a lactobacillus culture can be substituted for bokashi bran for a successful bokashi bucket.[
  • Compost tea is a liquid extract or a dissolved solution but not simply a suspension of compost. It is made by steeping compost in water for 3–7 days. It was discovered in Germany and became a practice to suppress foliar fungal diseases by nature of the bacterial competition, suppression, antibiosis on the leaf surface (phyllosphere). It has also been used as a fertilizer although lab tests show it is very weak in nutrients with less than 100ppm of available nitrogen and potassium. Other salts present in the tea solution are sodium, chlorides and sulfates.[16] The extract is applied as a spray to non-edible plant parts such as seedlings, or as a soil-drench (root dip), or as a surface spray to reduce incidence of harmful phytopathogenic fungi in the phyllosphere.[17]
  • Vermicompost is the product of composting utilizing various species of worms, usually red wigglers, white worms, and earthworms to create a heterogeneous mixture of decomposing vegetable or food waste (excluding meat, dairy, fats, or oils), bedding materials, and vermicast. Vermicast, also known as worm castings, worm humus or worm manure, is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by species of earthworm.[25] Vermicomposting is widely used in North America for on-site institutional processing of food waste,
  • provides a way to compost organic materials more quickly (as defined by a higher rate of carbon-to-nitrogen ratio increase) and to attain products that have lower salinity levels that are therefore more beneficial to plant mediums.[28]
  • such as in hospitals and shopping malls.[26] This type of composting is sometimes suggested as a feasible indoor home composting method.[27] Vermicomposting has gained popularity in both these industrial and domestic settings because, as compared to conventional composting, it
  • The earthworm species (or composting worms) most often used are red wigglers (Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei), though European nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis or Dendrobaena veneta) could also be used. Red wigglers are recommended by most vermiculture experts, as they have some of the best appetites and breed very quickly. Users refer to European nightcrawlers by a variety of other names, including dendrobaenas, dendras, Dutch Nightcrawlers, and Belgian nightcrawlers.
  • Roman Empire
  • here are many modern proponents of rapid composting that attempt to correct some of the perceived problems associated with traditional, slow composting. Many advocate that compost can be made in 2 to 3 weeks.[34] Many such short processes involve a few changes to traditional methods, including smaller, more homogenized pieces in the compost, controlling carbon to nitrogen (CN) ratio at 30 to 1 or less, and monitoring the moisture level more carefully. However, none of these parameters differ significantly from the early writings of Howard and Balfour, suggesting that in fact modern composting has not made significant advances over the traditional methods that take a few months to work. For this reason and others, many modern scientists who deal with carbon transformations are sceptical that there is a "super-charged" way to get nature to make compost rapidly.[35] In fact, both sides are right to some extent. The bacterial activity in rapid high heat methods breaks down the material to the extent that pathogens and seeds are destroyed, and the original feedstock is unrecognizable. At this stage, the compost can be used to prepare fields or other planting areas. However, most professionals recommend that the compost be given time to cure before using in a nursery for
  • starting seeds or growing young plants. The curing time allows fungi to continue the decomposition process and eliminating phytotoxic substances.[citation needed] Many countries such as Wales[36][37] and some individual cities such as Seattle and San Francisco require food and yard waste to be sorted for composting.[38][39]
  • Organisations Good Gardener's Association (UK) Cré, Composting Association of Ireland US Composting Council
  • "Composting for the Homeowner - University of Illinois Extension". Web.extension.illinois.edu. Retrieved 2013-07-18.
  • e methane;
  • waste
  • mpost is regulated in Canada and Australia as well.
    • parkgra20
      parkgra20 on 20 Sep 13
       
      cow fesies
  • sheileson20 on 18 Sep 13
     
    I hope this helps.
ashriley20

Kids - Composting with Willie the Worm - 0 views

www.michigan.gov/...00,7-247-49067-62499--,00.html

composting With Willie The Worm

shared by ashriley20 on 19 Sep 13 - No Cached
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  • Have you ever wondered how you can change garbage into treasure? If you said "COMPOSTING," you would be correct!
  • The experience of composting shows us that nature is a cycle. Things grow, die, decay, and return to the earth to help other things grow. Worms, along with other tiny organisms help this process along by digging and eating some of the things in the dirt. "Yuck!" you say? Well, hopefully you will see that organic wastes can become beautiful and healthy soil in which you can grow flowers, crops, and other plants.
  • ecause landfills are filling up so quickly, it is up to us to find new ways to get rid of our garbage. About 30% of all the garbage in the United States is made up of waste from food and yards. Composting is a great way to recycle household and lawn waste. This waste includes grass clippings, egg shells, and orange peels. Composting is a biological process that occurs when tiny, microscopic organisms break down old plant and animal tissues and recycle them to make new, healthy soil. These old plant and animal tissues are often called organic wastes.
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  • In order to create a compost pile, you will need to gather some tools, as well as educate yourself about composting.
  • Composting is not a difficult process. You don't even need very many tools. However, you should gather the following things before you get started
  • In addition to these items, you may want to consider other composting materials such as organic fertilizer, specialty worms, or dried hay. To find composting supplies, please visit your local garden products dealer or home and garden store
  • Now that you have all the tools you need, let's see what Willie the Worm says we should do
  • next!
  • Setting up a compost pile can be very easy if you are ready to do a little work! The first step is to select a location for your compost pile. You can put it anywhere in your backyard except near the house or a fence. If your pile is too close to your house, the worms and organisms that will live in the pile may get into your house! Yuck! So make sure you have plenty of room to work around. You may also want to be sure that your garden hose reaches the spot where you are working since you will need to water it occasionally. The pile should be at least 3 feet wide by 3 feet deep by 3 feet tall. If it is much smaller or larger, it won't compost correctly!
  • You can either build your pile on the ground or buy a special bin to contain the pile. Check with your parents to decide which option is best for you.
  • Using a bin can help your pile to look neater and it will work faster. You can also buy special bins so that you can compost inside your house! There are many different kinds of bins that you can buy or even make yourself!
  • Now that you have a location and perhaps a container in which to store your pile, what should you put in it? Your "recipe" for great compost is made up of two basic things: green stuff and brown stuff. Green stuff is materials like grass clippings, lettuce scraps, weeds, and other plant wastes. These green materials have high amounts of the element nitrogen. The compost pile needs nitrogen in order to help the micro-organisms work properly. In addition to nitrogen, you also need plenty of the element carbon in your compost pile. Carbon gives the micro-organisms energy to do their jobs. Carbon is found in brown stuff such as leaves and pine needles
  • There are a few no-no's in composting. You should not put the following materials in your
  • compost pile:
  • Meat scraps Bones Dairy products such as milk, cheese, or ice cream Oily foods
  • These products attract rodents and may cause the compost pile to stink! Yuck! You can put small scraps of newspaper in your pile because it is biodegradable. You can also throw in droppings from small animals such as hamsters and gerbils.
  • To build the best possible compost pile, there is a certain order in which you should layer the organic materials.
  • First, use the garden hose to wet the ground under the pile Place some small twigs or leaves at the bottom (brown stuff). This will help the pile get oxygen later. Add your organic wastes now (green stuff)! Be sure to keep the pile somewhat damp as you are adding materials. Add some soil to the pile. This layer contains the micro-organisms and worms that will help make the compost. Put more leaves, hay, or very small twigs (brown stuff) on the top of the pile. Taking Care of your Pile
  • In a few days, your pile should become very warm inside. It can reach temperatures of between 90 to 140 degrees within 4 to 5 days. You may even see steam rising from it! You should use your shovel or pitchfork to mix up and turn the pile every few days. This will help the tiny organisms and worms to work on the entire pile. Also make sure that the pile has plenty of moisture without getting too wet. If you pick up a pile of the dirt and squeeze it, a few drops of water should come out.
  •  When you look at your outdoor compost pile, you might not notice anything happening. However, inside the pile a flurry of activity is going on! Bugs such as millipedes, snails and slugs are shredding the materials into smaller pieces. These smaller pieces are easier for micro-organisms like fungi and bacteria to eat. These tiny organisms are so small that you can only see them under a microscope!
  • Worms are very helpful in composting piles. They help to increase air and water in the soil as well as breaking down leaves and grass so that the micro-organisms can work. We also help to distribute the organic materials evenly throughout the pile. Worms are amazing. Here are some cool facts about worms:
  • You will notice that your compost pile will shrink as time goes by. This means that the composting process is working. It can take anywhere from 2 months to 2 years. You will know it is done when the dirt is crumbly and dark and smells woodsy and earthy. Your compost is now ready to use in the garden!
  • This probably means that your pile is too small or too dry. You should add more stuff to your pile. As you are adding materials, you should water the pile and turn it with your shovel or pitchfork. My pile is being infested by rats and other animals! Animals are attracted to meat and animal products. This means that someone probably put some old meat scraps or raw eggs in your pile. You should not put these materials in your pile. If you must put food scraps in the pile, be sure to cover them well so that the animals cannot get to them. My pile is stinky! Smelly compost piles are usually just too wet or too tightly compacted. Turn your compost pile with a shovel or pitchfork to loosen the soil and expose it to the air.
  • My pile is moist and smells sweet, but it still doesn't seem to be heating up! This means that there is not enough nitrogen in the compost pile. Add some fresh grass clippings or a little fertilizer to the pile to fix the problem.
  • My pile isn't getting all warm inside!
  • Worms are amazing. Here are some cool facts about worms:
ashriley20

The GREENS: Episode 4: Kitchen Composting | PBS KIDS GO! - 0 views

meetthegreens.pbskids.org/...kitchen-composting.html

composting In kitchen steps

shared by ashriley20 on 19 Sep 13 - Cached
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  • First, you need a plastic bin or wooden box. Fill the box with damp — not soaking wet — paper and cardboard shreddings. This is called the worm's "bedding."
  • Add your worms. Be sure they are red worms (red wrigglers). You can order them online or find them at a local bait shop. Don't use earthworms — they won't survive!
  • Chop up your leftovers from dinner — bread, pasta, fruits & veggies and bury them under the bedding. Let the composting begin! As the worms magically turn your trash into "castings," you can scoop some out to fertilize your garden.
ashriley20

why do we compost - 0 views

www.stkh.k12.nf.ca/...why%20do%20we%20compost.html

compost guide

shared by ashriley20 on 20 Sep 13 - No Cached
  • It is estimated that 30 percent of the residential waste  is compostable material (kitchen and yard wastes) Encouraging backyard composting is one of the simplest, most effective steps that can be taken to reduce the amount of waste requiring transport to landfill sites.  Composting cuts disposal costs, saves energy, and reduces air and water pollution. An added plus, composting generates large volumes of a highly desirable garden soil amendment.
  • Why Should I Compost?
  • Why Should I Compost?
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