Classic Arcade Games - Resources

Dig Dug CP - missing a few chunks from lower front Dig Dug Monitor Glass Dig Dug Glass Marquee

Donkey Kong - no boards, ($135),

Donkey Kong - complete, dead ($240)

KnoxvilleCarmike 10 CinemasIronman Ivan Stewart's Super Off Road1998-10-120 KnoxvilleCelebration StationSuzuka 8 Hours2003-07-120 KnoxvilleDown Under (Web Page) (At UT Student Center)Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off Road, Sunset Riders2004-04-210 KnoxvilleFamily Gameland10-Yard Fight, Galaga, Heavy Barrel, Ms. Pac-Man1998-10-120 KnoxvilleFiction (Web Page) Ms. Pac-Man/Galaga - Class Of 19812004-03-230 KnoxvilleFun N Games (West Town Mall)Birdie King 31998-10-12- 1 - KnoxvilleKnoxville Center Mall (Alladins Castle)Galaga1998-10-120 KnoxvillePutt-Putt Golf & GamesAsteroids, Battle Shark, Donkey Kong, Galaga, Missile Command, Ms. Pac-Man, Pac-Man, Space Invaders, Ultracade2006-09-130 KnoxvilleThe Electric WizardRampart2001-12-250 KnoxvilleVic & Bill's DeliMs. Pac-Man/Galaga - Class Of 1981

You have a few options if your AR II board has already gone dead. You can technically replace it with any small amplifier that will run off the available power in your cabinet, this will require a little custom wiring though, and it will slightly devalue your game. The better solution is to get an AR repair kit, and fix your own board. It is a straightforward thing, and anyone who can use a soldering iron can do it. Repair kits are usually under $15, and replacement AR boards are usually around $30 or so (prices current as of September 2002). It is easy and cheap to fix the missing sound that many Atari games are afflicted with, so there is no excuse for a silent Tempest machine.

 euro-dig-dug (3 imgs, 312 Kb.)

3825 S. US 31 - INDIANAPOLIS, IN

The plug at R501 doesn't have anything plugged into it, yet there is a red and green wire just hanging off to the left. What is this for and do I need to hook it back up? Update: Turns out this is for degausing the monitor. I will hook it back up when I restore the game.

West Bend, WI

Pengo (worked until I turned the power supply pot too high, not displays  solid colored bars and that's it)

Are you getting 12 volts to the audio amp chip? Possibly a harness problem? or a power supply problem in the 12v?

The only problem is that the volume control in the coin door does not work (I believe the pot is bad).

wiretap.spies.com

The screen shows a repetitive pattern of (correct) ice-cube graphics, which will change if the DIP-switch setting is altered or the joystick is pushed. The sound amp seems to be ok, as the pot produces some noise when turned. The CPU seems to be ok, as the board reacts to switch settings.

As for the booting, I've looked over the schems, and it does appear that the +12v only goes to the amp. I would try removing the amp chip, then see if it boots with the 12v connected. If not, there may be a hairline short somewhere affecting the logic. If it does boot with the amp removed, it may well be a duff amp. The amp   is connected indirectly to the logic of the CPU, so it may be upsetting it.

Pengo (worked until I turned the power supply pot too high, not displays  solid colored bars and that's it)

I rigged a switcher to the harness, supplying the proper voltages, and the monitor is still fed thru the iso transformer.