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Hi,    I bought a P&P cocktail kit on ebay a couple of years ago.  It came with an extra set of Super Pac roms.  So I am assuming they are swappable.  Here are pics of my board and kit if it helps... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1621.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1622.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1624.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1256.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1255.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/shertz/ARCADE/DCAM1252.jpg                    -steve

Dig Dug was an old arcade game released way back in 1982 (this title was sold simultaneously by both Namco and Atari Games). There were two sequels, Dig Dug II (arcade version is impossible to find), and Mr. Driller (who is Dig Dug's son, this title is available in the form of arcade JAMMA boards, or for most newer console systems).

A Dig Dug boardset will plug right into a Galaga cabinet, although you have to switch Galaga's 2-Way joystick for a four way, and run the 2 extra wires for up and down from the wiring harness, but Galaga plays fine with a 4-Way, so this is a nice and easy project to have two classic games in a single cabinet.

Hell, I wish i knew someone around Michigan that had this game so i could just plug my board in their machine to see if it works.  Any Help?

Donkey Kong - no boards, ($135),

Donkey Kong - complete, dead ($240)

The Nintendo monitor needs an inverter board when the monitor is used with modern conversion kit games. For using the monitor with a Donkey Kong board you want to use the "Non-Inverted" connector. As for the darkness issue, if you have already installed a cap kit then try adjusting the "sub-bright" control on the main monitor board and if that doesn't help then try the "screen" control on the flyback. Then if after all this it's still too dark then you may have to have the picture tube 'rejuvenated' at a tv repair shop.

The screen shows a repetitive pattern of (correct) ice-cube graphics, which will change if the DIP-switch setting is altered or the joystick is pushed. The sound amp seems to be ok, as the pot produces some noise when turned. The CPU seems to be ok, as the board reacts to switch settings. My guess is, that at least one of the EPROMS is partially unreadable, or (worse) some video logic ist broken. It would be nice if someone could dump the EPROMS of his board and send the binaries to me or/and give some other repair hints.  

As for the booting, I've looked over the schems, and it does appear that the +12v only goes to the amp. I would try removing the amp chip, then see if it boots with the 12v connected. If not, there may be a hairline short somewhere affecting the logic. If it does boot with the amp removed, it may well be a duff amp. The amp   is connected indirectly to the logic of the CPU, so it may be upsetting it.

wiretap.spies.com

The screen shows a repetitive pattern of (correct) ice-cube graphics, which will change if the DIP-switch setting is altered or the joystick is pushed. The sound amp seems to be ok, as the pot produces some noise when turned. The CPU seems to be ok, as the board reacts to switch settings.