5A Charlie Eason K2 and Everest

K2 is known as the world’s hardest and most dangerous mountain more challenging even than Everest. In 1856 Captain T.G. Montgomerie, working on a survey of India, saw the Karakorum range and measured its peaks, identifying them with a series of numbers prefixed by the letter 'K' an abbreviation of the Karakorum name; hence K2. K2 on the Pakistan/Chinese border,  is the second highest mountain in the world at 28,250 feet. Farther north and 1,500 miles from Everest, it collects heavy snow and storms, and climbers have only a few days each year when they can try for the peak, usually in early August. “For a professional, seasoned mountaineer it’s more of the holy grail than Everest,” says the veteran American climber Ed Viesturs. “There is no easy way to climb K2.”

One of the factors that makes K2 so challenging is the sustained technical difficulty. It is sustained often described as a cone of ice and limestone, and has slopes of 45 degree angles or more. Climbers typically fix up to 2,500 meters of rope on the south side routes, and up to 5,000 meters of rope on the north ridge route. Because high-altitude porters are rarely employed, all of the work of carrying and setting the ropes and high camps must be done by the climbers themselves.

One of the factors that makes K2 so challenging is the sustained technical difficulty. It is sustained often described as a cone of ice and limestone, and has slopes of 45 degree angles or more. Climbers typically fix up to 2,500 meters of rope on the south side routes, and up to 5,000 meters of rope on the north ridge route. Because high-altitude porters are rarely employed, all of the work of carrying and setting the ropes and high camps must be done by the climbers themselves.   On Everest, there are typically 2 four or five day weather "windows" during the spring climbing season. Although K2 is almost impossible to climb without being caught in life-threatening weather, the best months to climb are June, July and August. The sudden storms are caused in part because the peak is so much higher than the mountains around it -- it juts up into the upper layers of the atmosphere and like a rock in a river can create eddies in the jet stream, with good weather on one side of the mountain, and life-threatening conditions on the other. The statistics There are fourteen "8,000ers" – fourteen mountains above 8,000 meters high that of course represent the 14 highest points on planet Earth. The following list of statistics was provided in February, 2001 by Xavier Eguskitza, the renowned Basque chronicler of Himalayan climbing.  Although K2 is listed 3rd in the rank of danger, this is factoring in the total number of deaths. Mr. Eguskitza points out, "If we consider the number of deaths coming down from the summit, K2 is by far the most dangerous, about 3 times more so than Annapurna. The problem on K2 is that if you reach the top, your chances of returning are significantly reduced." K2 fatality statistics Know how to survive In order to survive K2 you will need luck and skill. You´ll have to know your medicals, the altitude aids and altitude problems.  Read up well, start with the MountEverest.net sections and then practice. There will be limited possibilities for rescue or medical attention on K2.  You´ll have to know how to stitch somebody up, general first aid and all in all how to be entirely self reliable in many life threatening areas in order to save yourself, your porters or fellow climbers. Do your homework, your life might depend on it. Oxygen You don’t need the Everest face mask on K2. The Khumbu cough doesn’t exist here. You might however choose to bring oxygen. Although K2 is listed as a "no-oz" mountain, many skilled climbers have summited it using oxygen. Park from Korea is bringing it, Rob Hall used it, if you do  too you’ll be in great company.  Get the right bottles from Poisk, along with unused oxygen gear. K2 is only slightly lower than Everest, the climb is hard and the barometric pressure is said to be lower then that of Everest at the base of the mountain. If you feel uncertain about your no-oz abilities, don’t hesitate to bring it and use it.

There are fourteen "8,000ers" – fourteen mountains above 8,000 meters high that of course represent the 14 highest points on planet Earth. The following list of statistics was provided in February, 2001 by Xavier Eguskitza, the renowned Basque chronicler of Himalayan climbing.  Although K2 is listed 3rd in the rank of danger, this is factoring in the total number of deaths.

K2, also known as Godwin Austin, is considered the world’s toughest mountain to climb, it is also the world’s second highest peak. It is familiarly called “The Savage Mountain” and is arguably the hardest climb in the world. The first ascent was in 1954. It’s routes are steeper and more difficult than those to the top of Everest, and the surrounding weather is significantly colder and less predictable than on Everest. Reaching the top of K2 is the equivalent of an Olympic gold in mountaineering!

Photograph by Ed Viesturs Fast Facts K2 Vs. Everest K2 Elevation: 28,250 feet First Summited: July 31, 1954 Times Summited: 281 Deadliest Year: 1986, (27 summit, 13 die) First American: Louis Reichardt (1978) First Woman: Wanda Rutkiewicz (Poland, 1986) Everest Elevation: 29,035 feet First Summited: May 29, 1953 Times Summited: About 3,000 Deadliest Year: 1996, (98 summit, 15 die) First American: Jim Whittaker (1963) First Woman: Junko Tabei (Japan, 1975)