First thing you will need to do when starting to fit a new skirting board is to measure the total length along the wall that the skirting board will cover and add an extra 20% just to be on the safe side. Some skirting boards have a different profile on each side of the board. Decide on the profile that you are going to use and mark this face on all the boards with a pencil to prevent a mistake being made later on. To give yourself a simple start point, measure up, cut and fit any pieces of board that can go in square edged on both ends (as in either side of a chimney breast, for example, Mitre saws and mitre boxes can both be used to get a good straight cut. If you are working out from an internal corner then the next board to go in needs to be scribed so it will slot into the board you have just fitted. To do this, first cut a 45 degree angle in the board using a mitre saw or mitre box. Using a coping saw to cut away the waste section of the mitre and you'll be left with the profile of the skirting board. If the moulding is fairly intricate it can take a bit of practice to get right - have a go with offcuts first. Check the fit of the two boards, if you're happy with the way they look, you can cut or mitre the other end of the scribed board to length. Plan the way your board go in to avoid the need for a board with scribes at both ends. Scribing both ends of a board calls for extremely accurate measuring and cutting. By simply leaving one end of the board square and scribing the adjacent board into that, you instantly get round the problem. Where boards meet on an external corner they are mitred at 45 degrees to form a neat joint. Measure to the corner and then mark this length on the back of the board to be cut. Put the board face out into the mitre saw, line the saw up with the mark you made in the last step and cut. To create the opposite side of the mitre, when you cut the 45 degree before, cut it the other way. With the mitre saw you create and opposite cut by moving the saw to the other side of its axis. Fix the boards to the walls as you cut them to size but fit mitred external corners in pairs so you can adjust them to fit together accurately. Instant grad-type adhesive is a very popular way of fixing boards, particularly in house with plasterboard dividing walls. To do this you can apply blobs of adhesive or run a couple of beads along the back of the board. Press the board firmly to the wall so the adhesive makes good contact and wipe off any excess straight away. If you want to screw the boards to a plasterboard wall, mark the position of the wooden studs then put a drill through the skirting board and the wall at these points. If you are fixing to a solid wall run a drill through the skirting board to mark the wall behind every 600mm. how to fit skirting board
To give yourself a simple start point, measure up, cut and fit any pieces of board that can go in square edged on both ends (as in either side of a chimney breast, for example, Mitre saws and mitre boxes can both be used to get a good straight cut. If you are working out from an internal corner then the next board to go in needs to be scribed so it will slot into the board you have just fitted. To do this, first cut a 45 degree angle in the board using a mitre saw or mitre box. Using a coping saw to cut away the waste section of the mitre and you'll be left with the profile of the skirting board. If the moulding is fairly intricate it can take a bit of practice to get right - have a go with offcuts first.
Check the fit of the two boards, if you're happy with the way they look, you can cut or mitre the other end of the scribed board to length. Plan the way your board go in to avoid the need for a board with scribes at both ends. Scribing both ends of a board calls for extremely accurate measuring and cutting. By simply leaving one end of the board square and scribing the adjacent board into that, you instantly get round the problem. Where boards meet on an external corner they are mitred at 45 degrees to form a neat joint. Measure to the corner and then mark this length on the back of the board to be cut.
Put the board face out into the mitre saw, line the saw up with the mark you made in the last step and cut. To create the opposite side of the mitre, when you cut the 45 degree before, cut it the other way. With the mitre saw you create and opposite cut by moving the saw to the other side of its axis. Fix the boards to the walls as you cut them to size but fit mitred external corners in pairs so you can adjust them to fit together accurately. Instant grad-type adhesive is a very popular way of fixing boards, particularly in house with plasterboard dividing walls. To do this you can apply blobs of adhesive or run a couple of beads along the back of the board. Press the board firmly to the wall so the adhesive makes good contact and wipe off any excess straight away.
If you want to screw the boards to a plasterboard wall, mark the position of the wooden studs then put a drill through the skirting board and the wall at these points. If you are fixing to a solid wall run a drill through the skirting board to mark the wall behind every 600mm. how to fit skirting board